Mut der verzweiflung, 8+/9-
One of the big classical lines of Ettringen. It starts with a tight hand/ring lock crack and ends up in a small finger crack. After many attempts, nice flights, scary moments, powerful moments, weak moments, I was able to climb it on lead with the protections preplaced. For me it was not enough, I had to climb it clean. 'The rules are very simple!'
'The condition's were far from great, but it was great to be out there! I had a bit cold hands and the rock felt a bit humid so I thought let's go for a hard one, to become a little bit warmer. In my first try of Mut der Verzweiflung (8+/9-), I climbed, and I passed my mental crux, a move were I lost allot skin of my finger, fell several meters in a BD.3, a point were I always get scared.
In the move before the last one, I found a wet crack. While my foot slips away, I could hold myself on the fingerjam and could fight on. And just before the top I get pump and I fall because my right arm was to pump to clip the top! A beautiful 'Kareltje' was made again, I hate this specialism of me...
I had to go for a second try, and with shaky legs and a snow shower, I could climb it finally in one go. I think this has been my biggest project ever. I had so many scary moments, weak moments, strong moments, stupid mistakes and other issues in this project, it feels really great to have finished it!'
Anyway, I know one thing for sure, I will repeat it many times more!
'The condition's were far from great, but it was great to be out there! I had a bit cold hands and the rock felt a bit humid so I thought let's go for a hard one, to become a little bit warmer. In my first try of Mut der Verzweiflung (8+/9-), I climbed, and I passed my mental crux, a move were I lost allot skin of my finger, fell several meters in a BD.3, a point were I always get scared.
In the move before the last one, I found a wet crack. While my foot slips away, I could hold myself on the fingerjam and could fight on. And just before the top I get pump and I fall because my right arm was to pump to clip the top! A beautiful 'Kareltje' was made again, I hate this specialism of me...
I had to go for a second try, and with shaky legs and a snow shower, I could climb it finally in one go. I think this has been my biggest project ever. I had so many scary moments, weak moments, strong moments, stupid mistakes and other issues in this project, it feels really great to have finished it!'
Anyway, I know one thing for sure, I will repeat it many times more!