"Qui cherche trouvera."
A 3 length multipitch, starting from 'La Vire Inter.From chimney, to finger, to slab. It's a line were you have to switch from one technique to the other. I climbed the first pitch ground up, because it took a long time, we descended from the top of L1 . Some days after we tried to climb it ground up to the top, but we get stuck after L2. Again some days after I tried the last pitch in top-rope, and I cleaned some lose rock and some mosses. and drilled belay stations The day after we climbed the line in one go and the big search was accomplished.
The result was: 'Qui cherche trouvera'.
Recommended gear: 2x 50m rope; Double Bd .3 - 3 + a 4; some small stoppers; slings 60cm/120cm.
The line starts between Lake Placid and Vingt 2 in the chimney behind the trees. The chimney (5c) is a fun climb, not hard to protect, only a bit sandy. There are some flakes and lose rock, so be careful with your placements mainly you can use some pockets for solid protection. On the end you go left out of the chimney on a ledge were a new crack (6a+) from 8 meters is rising. Find your way to get into this crack which starts as a offwith (Bd4), The crack gets smaller to a fist/hand crack (Bd2). Again traverse to the left through/behind a tree were a small finger crack is going up. After 2,5 meters there is the first belay station on the left. Take care of the rope drag in this pitch.
Continue the finger crack (6b) for 10 meters, till a flake is coming out of the crack. Many pockets are on the right, which makes it possible to traverse to the right (6b). A big move brings you to the edge were a small ledge is going perfectly horizontal to the right. Use for the hands the small one or two finger pockets to keep your balance. Traverse for 15 meters to a belay station with chain (6b).
The result was: 'Qui cherche trouvera'.
Recommended gear: 2x 50m rope; Double Bd .3 - 3 + a 4; some small stoppers; slings 60cm/120cm.
The line starts between Lake Placid and Vingt 2 in the chimney behind the trees. The chimney (5c) is a fun climb, not hard to protect, only a bit sandy. There are some flakes and lose rock, so be careful with your placements mainly you can use some pockets for solid protection. On the end you go left out of the chimney on a ledge were a new crack (6a+) from 8 meters is rising. Find your way to get into this crack which starts as a offwith (Bd4), The crack gets smaller to a fist/hand crack (Bd2). Again traverse to the left through/behind a tree were a small finger crack is going up. After 2,5 meters there is the first belay station on the left. Take care of the rope drag in this pitch.
Continue the finger crack (6b) for 10 meters, till a flake is coming out of the crack. Many pockets are on the right, which makes it possible to traverse to the right (6b). A big move brings you to the edge were a small ledge is going perfectly horizontal to the right. Use for the hands the small one or two finger pockets to keep your balance. Traverse for 15 meters to a belay station with chain (6b).
For the last pitch you have to climb back for maybe 2/3 meters to a small dihedral with a close crack and some hug pockets. Make sure you have some really good protections, because these are the last ones before you enter a slab. A nice technical slab (6cR) with a really important pebble is leading you to the a nice crack were you can put a Bd 1 and 2. Follow the crack with some beautiful but not so hard lay back moves, and traverse to the 'Jardin' (5+). A last small offwith crack brings you to the top (5c/6a).
Descend: Walk over the top slab to the abseil station from Directe Dossolin, and abseil in 2 lengths back to 'la Vire Inter'. (Take a good look in the second length because you abseil down over a wonderful line called 'Les Crasseux', opened by Niek de Jonge, Micheal van Geemen and Rutger Lieverse. Line opened 11-01-2013 by Karel Snoek, Micheal van Geemeren and Rutger Lieverse |
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Schizophrénia, 6a+
The line starts with some real serious boulder moves to enter the crack. As soon as your in the crack you will find out why this lines is called like this. For the left side of your body you have to use your offwith techniques and for the right side some sport climbing techniques.
On the really end you lay-back to the top of the crack where a nice mantle move is waiting for you.
We didn't do the first assent, because after climbing this line ground up, we heard it was already climbed by people from Grenoble. They left it unequipped, so we drilled an anchor on top. This is a beautiful line, probably around 6a+.
Gear: Bd: 1,2,3,4,4,5,6
On the really end you lay-back to the top of the crack where a nice mantle move is waiting for you.
We didn't do the first assent, because after climbing this line ground up, we heard it was already climbed by people from Grenoble. They left it unequipped, so we drilled an anchor on top. This is a beautiful line, probably around 6a+.
Gear: Bd: 1,2,3,4,4,5,6